PK Graphica's Aerosane NKL-26
by Neil Linnell
Photos by the Author


Initially built to meet basic transportation and communication needs, aerosleds were first produced in Russia around 1912. As a solution to the problems created by harsh winter conditions, the aerosled basically consisted of platform mounted on steerable skis and propelled by an automobile or aircraft engine-powered rotor blade. As is often the case, it did not take long for this piece of civilian technology to be adapted for military use. With the outbreak of World War II, Russian designers came up with several new military aerosleds, including the open-air NKL-16 and RF-8-GAZ-98, and the full-hulled NKL-26.

As the hull of the NKL-26 was plywood, however, with armor-plating on the front only, the two-man crew of the NKl-26 was only slighty better protected than those piloting its open-air counterparts. While the NKL-26's driver occupied a seat of relative safety inside the vehicle (and behind the armor plate), the vehicle commander was perched through a hole in the roof, behind a small rotating armor shield and armed with a 7.62mm machine gun. The aerosled's engine was a 5-cylinder, air-cooled radial aircraft engine that was interchangeable with the NKL-16 aerosled.

Aerosled battalions proved themselves to be quite useful at specific tasks such as patrolling, chasing a retreating enemy, or moving troops and supplies when road conditions were unfavorable to more traditional transport means. In some cases, aerosled units were able to successfully execute suprise attacks on un-fortified enemy positions. Their limited range and vulnerability to even moderate fire, however, ensured that the aerosled would be relegated generally to a combat support role, and not to participate in any kind of frontal assault. Try these links for more information, including photos and diagrams, on Russian aerosleds and the NKL-26.


The kit

This kit, produced by the Czech company PK Graphica, consists of 2 pages of parts nicely printed on good cardstock. The parts have some good weathering included in the design, so the finished model looks well-worn. There is also 1 page of good diagrams, and a page of instructions in Czech. Construcion is, for the most part, fairly straight forward, so a lack of English (or non-Czech) instructions is not a problem.


Vehicle hull

The aerosled's hull is put together from two assemblies: an outer skin made up of 5 pieces (including the roof), and the interior compartment
 (a single piece). There are no formers or other bracings as they are not needed; the interior compartment fits very snugly into the outer skin. When the roof is added, the structure is actually quite rigid.

The interior and exterior pieces have printed windows (bluish in color) that are pretty realistic looking, but still no substitute for "real" windows, so I cut the windows out and used some clear film between the interior and exterior pieces.

The interior components are easily assembled and include the driver's seat, the instrument panel and steering wheel, the fuel tank and fuel filler, and first aid and equipment boxes.

I installed the interior compartment in the outer skin first, and then put the individual interior components in place. Note that the fuel filler (the skinny green cylinder in the picture above) was not installed at this time; once the roof is installed, the fuel filler can be inserted in the small hole in the roof and pushed down to meet the fuel drum.

Engine

The engine is put together with a series of cylinders and cones, and is mounted to the hull with a cardstock engine mount. A piece of wire on either side of the engine completes the mounting scheme. Other bits of wire are used to detail the engine.

The massive propeller is also easily assembled, and is designed so that no bracing with toothpicks is necessary to give it that 3-D look (see pictures of finished model below).

Skis


The vehicle's 4 skis are identical. The tedious task here are the 40 (10 per ski) tiny triangle-shaped braces that are attached.

The ski struts are little bit tricky; there are several folds on these small pieces. It is also important to glue the underside of the strut to the back of the strut before cutting out the two openings in each strut.


The skis are attached to 2 axles that are run through holes at the bottom of the hull. I used wooden skewers for axles.


"Wire works" and other details

There are a lot of wire pieces that are used to finish detailing the model. The first bit of wire work I did was the safety fence. The safety fence was designed to keep folks from exiting the vehicle and walking into the spinning prop. It is constructed from 2 pieces of v-shaped wire and 2 straight pieces of wire (one of each on either side. The wire-to-wire joint is the outer point of the fence, where the end of the straight piece is attached to the elbow of the v. I used a cyanoacrylate gel, and it worked well and gave the appearance of a weld. After these pieces were attached, I added another coat of red acrylic paint, as the first coat (applied pre-assembly) was just not red enough.

Next, I put the shock absorbers on. The shock absorbers are simply rolled around a piece of wire (similar to making an airplane's landing gear) and attached to the hull at the top and the ski at the bottom. I would have liked for the shocks to have a little bit more a 3-D appearance; if I were to build this model again, I would spend a little more time to improve the detail here.

Finally, the steering rods (indicated by the red arrows) are attached and the wire work is done.

Final details include the door, the headlight, a shovel, and a machine gun. These are all easily assembled and attached.

Conclusion

This was a fun kit to build. It's not too difficult, and it will be one of the most unusual models in any collection. It is sure to be an attention-getter and conversation starter. The design is excellent; all the parts went together very nicely as designed and I encountered no problems with fit. Highly recommended to any modeler looking for something a little bit different.







Summary:

Model: Aerosane (Aerosled) NKL-26
Kit: PK Graphica
Availability: Joseph Spinali's Spishop
Scale: 1/25
Difficulty: Medium
Number of Parts: about 150
Instructions: Czech
Diagrams: Good
Fit: Excellent
Coloring and Artwork: Very Good
Printing: Very Good

This model is available from Joseph Spinelli in the Czech Republic.

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