External Hull construction Continued
When I decided to open up the engine compartment to show off the engine detail
I realized that I would also have to modify the large ventilator. This
ventilator on the left side of the tank sits partially on the engine cover plate
and would have to be cut in half. A little research showed that the part
as supplied in the kit is not quite correct, the ears on each side of the ventilator
were not in the correct location and were not the correct shape. Both
of these problems were easy to rectify. The photo shows a proto build
of the part as supplied in the kit and the partially built split version of
the ventilator.
The following photos show the finished engine cover in place
and also the cover removed to show the interior of the ventilator.
Assuming we try to build completely out of paper there are several areas
where a paper model cannot compete with other forms of modeling.
We have all faced the dreaded compound curve, now try to make this compound
curve in to a rod or a tube. This describes the typical tow chucks (Part
173) on AFV's, well this is where I start looking for other ways of making the
part. We are going to show how to make these tow chucks. I
have a preference for using copper and brass wire for complex parts that are
basically a tube/ rod and soldering on any attachments. If you do not
have a soldering iron you can purchase a small 25-watt soldering iron from most
home supply stores for around $10. 00 complete with extra tips and solder.
Soldering is not difficult as long as you remember the two secrets to successful
soldering, which are cleanliness and proper application of the solder.
All parts that are to be soldered need to be cleaned of all grease residue and
should be lightly sanded. The proper way to apply solder is to heat the
parts and apply the solder to the part and not to the tip of the iron, as you
apply the solder it should flow into the parts. If you have the parts
hot enough and have applied the solder correctly the solder will have a smooth
bright surface when you are finished.
To make the parts we will use 16 ga. solid copper wire, you can usually get
short (1 foot) lengths form your local Home supply store. We need to
break down the part into its simplest elements. For each tow chuck we
will make two hoops and a "U" shaped center section. First we will make
the hoops for the tow chucks. Tightly wind the wire around a 1/16 (1.6mm)
rod. When you have 10 hoops (two extra for the floor, I know I'm going
to drop one of them) cut the individual hoops from the coil and trim the open
section to allow the wire to fit in to the gap.
The next step is to make the assembly fixture. The fixture was made
from basswood a little wider then the hull sides that the tow chucks are mounted
on. A hole is drilled through the fixture for a wood dowel that was sanded
to be a snug fit in the hoops. The notch above the dowel will be used
to position the "U" shaped center section of the tow chucks.
Next we make the center "U" section the legs should be just long enough to
touch the wood dowel. Assemble two hoops on the dowel and fit the center
section in the notch on the fixture if necessary trim the center section to
get a good fit. When you are satisfied with the fit solder the parts.
After the part has cooled off, you can apply water to cool the part rapidly,
remove the dowel and you have a nearly finished part.
Now we get out the jewelers files and clean up the excess solder, clean off
any solder flux and paint the part with primer. After the primer was
dry the parts were painted with watercolor paint, if you use watercolor paint it
is best to let the paint dry for a day of two before you handle the part.
The pintels are made from wood dowels. The finished part is unquestionably
better looking then a flat strip of paper and well worth the effort.
The hull is finished except for the tools mounted on the side of the hull
and the IR optical equipment. Since I would like to start on the turret
I am going to put off building the accessory equipment until I have the turret
finished.
Summary:
| Model: | PzKpfw V Panther 1-2/2002 |
| Kit: | Halinski |
| Designers: | Marian Sobel | Scale: | 1/25 |
| Difficulty: | Very complex, very difficult |
| Number of Parts: | Over 3000 |
| Instructions: | Polish, German and English |
| Diagrams: | 4 pages generally good |
| Fit: | Excellent |
| Coloring and Artwork: | Outstanding |
| Printing: | Excellent |
| Resources: | http://www.achtungpanzer.com/pz4.htm#panther
http://www.kithobbyist.com/AFVInteriors/pan/pan.htm http://www.militarygameronline.com/Panzer/panther.htm "Germany's Panther Tank" by Thomas L. Jentz Published by Schiffer Military History |
